GENERAL TEXTILE PROCESSES Part -1 General aspects of dyeing Fundamental principles of dyeing M.clark,university of Leeds ,UK Introduction Principles of dyeing Exhaust dyeing Continuous dyeing Printing Classification systems for dyes Classification of dyes by dye class Conclusion References 2 Structure and properties of textile materials S. Grishanov ,De Montfort university,UK Introduction Classification and properties of textile fibers Fiber properties related 0f textile fibers Fibre properties related to textile technology Classification and properties of basic textile products Physical chemistry of fibre polymers Cellulosic fibres Man-made fibres Sources of further information and advice References 3 Pre-treatment and preparation of textile Materials prior to dyeing A.K.Roy choudhury government college of engineering and textile technology, serampore ,India Introduction Impurities in textile fibres Aims of preparatory processes Preparation of cotton materials Inspection and mending Shearing and cropping Singeing Enzymatic processing Desizing process Scouring of cotton and other cellulosic fibres Mercerization Preparation of proteineous materials Carbonization and scouring of wool Shrink-resist treatment for wool Degumming of silk Preparation of synthetic materials Bleaching Improvement of whiteness References 4 Chemistry of dyeing D.P chattopadhyay the maharaja sayajirao University of baroda,India Fundamental principles of direct dyeing Fundamental principles of reactive dyeing Fundamental principles of acid dyeing Fundamental principles of vat dyeing Fundamental principles of sulphur dyeing Conclusions References 5 thermodynamics and kinetics of dyeing and dyebath Monitoring systems M.ferus-comelo smart lab ltd UK Introduction Thermodynamics of dyeing Kinetics of dyeing Dye bath monitoring systems Sources of further information References Appendix: mathematical symbols 6 An overview of dye fastness testing J.N. Chakra borty, national institute of technology Jalandhar India Introduction Overview of dye fastness testing Grading of fastness properties Factors influencing dye fastness Application Conclusions Sources of further information and advice References 7 )Molecular modeling and predicting dye properties A. El-shafel D hinks and H.S freeman north Carolina State university USA Introduction Prediction of wavelength of maximum absorption Effect of crystal packing on Ab initio calculations of crystal structures Quantitative-structure activity relationship in dye-fiber Affinity prediction References 8) Methods and machinery for the dyeing process G.P.Nair, technical advisor technocrat society, India Introduction Jiggers Beam dyeing machines Contents Winches Jet dyeing machines with hydraulic flow system Airflow dyeing machines with aerodynamic flow system Atmospheric soft flow/overflow dyeing machines HT soft flow/overflow dyeing machines Machines to dye fabric in rope/open-width form Semi-continuous and continuous open-width dyeing machines Future trends References Appendix: list of machinery manufacturers Part-II Dye types and processes The chemistry of reactive dyes and their application Processes D.M. LEWIS, university of Leeds, UK Introduction The history of reactive dye development Chemistry of commercially available reactive dyes The application of reactive dyes to cellulosic fibres The application of reactive dyes to natural and synthetic Polyamide fibres Miscellaneous methods to covalently bond dyes to fibres Conclusions References 10) Disperse dyes M.L.GULRAJANI, Indian institute of technology, Delhi, India Introduction Developments in disperse dyes Types of disperse dye Properties of disperse dyes Future trends References 11) Natural dyes B.H.PATEL, the maharaja sayajirao university of baroda ,India Introduction Classification of natural dyes Chemistry of natural dyes Chemistry and types of mordants Application of mordants to textiles Application of natural dyes to textiles Fastness properties of dyes Future trends Sources of further information and advice References 12) Direct dyes N. SEKAR, Institute of chemical technology Mumbai, India Introduction Classification of direct dyes according to dying characteristics Classification based on chemical structure Bisazine dyes and copper phthalocyanine dyes Future trends Sources of further information and advice References 13 ) Metal-complex dyes J.N chakra borty, national institute of technology Jalandhar India Introduction General properties Chemistry of dyes Classification and nomenclature Mordant dyes Premetallised dyes Fastness of dyed fabrics The problem of waste water Future trends Sources of further information and advice References 14) Sulphur dyes J.N chakra borty, national institute of technology Jalandhar India Introduction Properties of sulphur dyes Chemistry of sulphur dyes Synthesis Classification of sulphur dyes Practical application Reducing systems Oxidizing agents Bronzing of dyeing Fastness of dyed textiles Tendering effect on cellulose Waste-water load from sulphur dyebath Strengths and limitations Stripping of sulphur dyes Future trends Sources of further information and advice References 15) Acid dyes N.SEKAR,Institute of chemical technology Mumbai, India Introduction Classification of acid dyes Azo acid dyes Anthraquinone dyes Acid nitro dyes Triphenylmethane acid dyes Water-repellent dyes Acid dyes with inherent light fastness Acid dyes free from 1-naphtylamine Future trends Sources of further information and advice References 16 Environmentally friendly dyes R.B CHAVAN,bahir dar university ,Ethiopia Introduction Classification of dyes Environmental issues in dyeing Environmentally friendly dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes Alternative reducing systems for the dyeing of cotton With vat and sulphur dyes Environmentally friendly dyeing of wool Environmentally friendly dyeing of polyester Further trends References 17) Fluorescent dyes R.M. CHRISTIE, heriot-watt university, UK Introduction Fluorescence Chemical types of fluorescent dye Textile applications of fluorescent dyes Other applications of fluorescent dyes Future trends Sources of further information References 18) Near-infrared dyes S-H.KM,Kyungpook national university, south korea And Y-A.son ,chungnam national university,south korea Introduction Properties of near-infrared (NIR) dyes Types of NAIR dyes Applications Future trends References 19) Azoic dyeing D.P. chattopadhyay,the maharaja sayajirao University of baroda ,India Introduction Advantages and disadvantages of azoic dyeing Chemistry of azoic dyeing Colors obtainable using azoic components Methods for dissolution of naphthol Naphtholation and dyeing of cotton Intermediate treatments Development After-treatment Dyeing of silk Dyeing of polyester Dyeing of nylon Fastness properties Stripping of azoic colors Environmental issues associated with azoic colors Conclusion References
GENERAL TEXTILE PROCESSES
Part -1 General aspects of dyeing
Fundamental principles of dyeing
M.clark,university of Leeds ,UK
Introduction
Principles of dyeing
Exhaust dyeing
Continuous dyeing
Printing
Classification systems for dyes
Classification of dyes by dye class
Conclusion
References
2 Structure and properties of textile materials
S. Grishanov ,De Montfort university,UK
Classification and properties of textile fibers
Fiber properties related 0f textile fibers
Fibre properties related to textile technology
Classification and properties of basic textile products
Physical chemistry of fibre polymers
Cellulosic fibres
Man-made fibres
Sources of further information and advice
3 Pre-treatment and preparation of textile
Materials prior to dyeing
A.K.Roy choudhury government college of engineering and textile technology, serampore ,India
Impurities in textile fibres
Aims of preparatory processes
Preparation of cotton materials
Inspection and mending
Shearing and cropping
Singeing
Enzymatic processing
Desizing process
Scouring of cotton and other cellulosic fibres
Mercerization
Preparation of proteineous materials
Carbonization and scouring of wool
Shrink-resist treatment for wool
Degumming of silk
Preparation of synthetic materials
Bleaching
Improvement of whiteness
4 Chemistry of dyeing
D.P chattopadhyay the maharaja sayajirao
University of baroda,India
Fundamental principles of direct dyeing
Fundamental principles of reactive dyeing
Fundamental principles of acid dyeing
Fundamental principles of vat dyeing
Fundamental principles of sulphur dyeing
Conclusions
5 thermodynamics and kinetics of dyeing and dyebath
Monitoring systems
M.ferus-comelo smart lab ltd UK
Thermodynamics of dyeing
Kinetics of dyeing
Dye bath monitoring systems
Sources of further information
Appendix: mathematical symbols
6 An overview of dye fastness testing
J.N. Chakra borty, national institute of technology
Jalandhar India
Overview of dye fastness testing
Grading of fastness properties
Factors influencing dye fastness
Application
7 )Molecular modeling and predicting dye properties
A. El-shafel D hinks and H.S freeman north Carolina
State university USA
Prediction of wavelength of maximum absorption
Effect of crystal packing on
Ab initio calculations of crystal structures
Quantitative-structure activity relationship in dye-fiber
Affinity prediction
8) Methods and machinery for the dyeing process
G.P.Nair, technical advisor technocrat society, India
Jiggers
Beam dyeing machines
Contents
Winches
Jet dyeing machines with hydraulic flow system
Airflow dyeing machines with aerodynamic flow system
Atmospheric soft flow/overflow dyeing machines
HT soft flow/overflow dyeing machines
Machines to dye fabric in rope/open-width form
Semi-continuous and continuous open-width dyeing machines
Future trends
Appendix: list of machinery manufacturers
Part-II Dye types and processes
The chemistry of reactive dyes and their application
Processes
D.M. LEWIS, university of Leeds, UK
The history of reactive dye development
Chemistry of commercially available reactive dyes
The application of reactive dyes to cellulosic fibres
The application of reactive dyes to natural and synthetic
Polyamide fibres
Miscellaneous methods to covalently bond dyes to fibres
10) Disperse dyes
M.L.GULRAJANI, Indian institute of technology,
Delhi, India
Developments in disperse dyes
Types of disperse dye
Properties of disperse dyes
11) Natural dyes
B.H.PATEL, the maharaja sayajirao university of baroda ,India
Classification of natural dyes
Chemistry of natural dyes
Chemistry and types of mordants
Application of mordants to textiles
Application of natural dyes to textiles
Fastness properties of dyes
12) Direct dyes
N. SEKAR, Institute of chemical technology Mumbai, India
Classification of direct dyes according to dying characteristics
Classification based on chemical structure
Bisazine dyes and copper phthalocyanine dyes
13 ) Metal-complex dyes
J.N chakra borty, national institute of technology
General properties
Chemistry of dyes
Classification and nomenclature
Mordant dyes
Premetallised dyes
Fastness of dyed fabrics
The problem of waste water
14) Sulphur dyes
Properties of sulphur dyes
Chemistry of sulphur dyes
Synthesis
Classification of sulphur dyes
Practical application
Reducing systems
Oxidizing agents
Bronzing of dyeing
Fastness of dyed textiles
Tendering effect on cellulose
Waste-water load from sulphur dyebath
Strengths and limitations
Stripping of sulphur dyes
15) Acid dyes
N.SEKAR,Institute of chemical technology Mumbai, India
Classification of acid dyes
Azo acid dyes
Anthraquinone dyes
Acid nitro dyes
Triphenylmethane acid dyes
Water-repellent dyes
Acid dyes with inherent light fastness
Acid dyes free from 1-naphtylamine
16 Environmentally friendly dyes
R.B CHAVAN,bahir dar university ,Ethiopia
Classification of dyes
Environmental issues in dyeing
Environmentally friendly dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes
Alternative reducing systems for the dyeing of cotton
With vat and sulphur dyes
Environmentally friendly dyeing of wool
Environmentally friendly dyeing of polyester
Further trends
17) Fluorescent dyes
R.M. CHRISTIE, heriot-watt university, UK
Fluorescence
Chemical types of fluorescent dye
Textile applications of fluorescent dyes
Other applications of fluorescent dyes
18) Near-infrared dyes
S-H.KM,Kyungpook national university, south korea
And Y-A.son ,chungnam national university,south korea
Properties of near-infrared (NIR) dyes
Types of NAIR dyes
Applications
19) Azoic dyeing
D.P. chattopadhyay,the maharaja sayajirao
University of baroda ,India
Advantages and disadvantages of azoic dyeing
Chemistry of azoic dyeing
Colors obtainable using azoic components
Methods for dissolution of naphthol
Naphtholation and dyeing of cotton
Intermediate treatments
Development
After-treatment
Dyeing of silk
Dyeing of polyester
Dyeing of nylon
Fastness properties
Stripping of azoic colors
Environmental issues associated with azoic colors
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