FABRIC MANUFACTURING Contents Preface Acknowledgments Author 1 Textile fabrics: An overview 2 A brief outline of various fabric formation systems Weaving system Knitting system Braiding system Netting and lacing systems Nonwoven systems 3 Yarn winding Objectives Package build Unwinding behavior Precision and random winding Features of a modern surface-driven cone-winding machine Tensioner Yarn splicer Ends-opposed pneumatic splicing Ends-together pneumatic splicing Principles of pneumatic splicing Non-pneumatic splicers Yarn cleaners Yarn waxing Drum winding Drum drive Effects of drum groove geometry Package cradle Peripheral features 4 Warping Objectives Warping systems Elements of warping systems Creel Leasing system Expandable reed and length-measuring system Drum for winding sections Beaming systems Further reading 5 Yarn sizing Objectives Importance of sizing Sizing material Desirable nature of bonds between adhesives and Fiber material Van der waals forces Dipole-dipole interactions Hydrogen bonds Starch as a suitable material for sizing cotton Boiling of starch Acid treatment Alkali treatment Oxidation of starch Typical behavior of starch as aqueous Suspension Sizing of synthetic fibers Hot melt adhesives Sizing machine Creel Size box Drying zone Splitting zone Beaming zone Controls on a modern sizing machine Stretch control Tension control Moisture control Pressure control Temperature control Level control Special sizing systems Dye sizing Single-end sizing Hot melt sizing Solvent sizing Cold sizing Feature of new sizing methods Reference Further reading 6. Basic weaves and the process of drawing in Basic concepts Identification to the basic weaves Repeat and shift Drafting and lifting Methods of generating weaves Transformation methods of fabric weave design Process of drawing in References Further reading Appendix 7 Primary and secondary motions of a weaving loom Basic machine elements Principles of shedding Shedding tappet Shed geometry Shed angle Cyclic variation in yarn strain Shed envelope Asymmetric shed Staggered shed Geometry of wrap line Types of shed Principles of shuttle picking Mechanism Kinematics of a picking system Beating up Reed Mechanism of the beating-up process Development of crimp and widthwise Contraction of fabric Stabilizing fabric width at the reed Cloth fell displacement during beating up Principles of take up Principles of let off Negative let-off motion Positive let-off motion Variation in warp tension References Further reading 8 Development in shedding motions Limitations of shedding tappet Functional principles of dobby Principles of dobby Principle of programming Driving system Limitations of dobby Functional principles of jacquard Selection system Limitations of mechanical jacquard New generation jacquards New concepts of jacquard shedding Next-generation shedding systems References Further reading 9 Developments in weft insertion systems Drawbacks of a conventional system Basic principles of shuttles weft insertion systems Partially guided solid carrier Fully guided solid carrier Basic concepts of fluid carrier Guided fluid carrier Completely unguided fluid carrier References Further readings Appendix 10 Features of modern shuttle less weaving systems Machine drive and power consumption Drive to sley Fabric selvedge Productivity and fabric quality Application of electronics Application of composite materials QSC and automation in drawing in Preparatory process Modern cone winder Modern warper Modernization in sizing Noise generation Techno-economics 11 Nonconventional weaving systems Multiphase weaving Ripple shed weaving Wave shed weaving Narrow fabric weaving References 12 Formation of weft-knitted fabrics Introduction Basic concepts Process of loop formation Basic weft knits Plain or single jersey Derivatives of single jersey Instability and asymmetry of plain loop Curling of fabrics edges Spirality of wale line Stability of wale line Stabilization of knitted structure Rib knit Purl knit Interlock knit Conventions for re presentation of weft-knitted stitches Systems of the basic weft-knitting machines Needles and beds Sinkers Knitting cams Sequence of loop formation Single bed Loop formation on single flat bed Loop formation on single circular bed Double bed Rib gating Interlock gating Purl gating Guidelines on control of the knitting process Relationship between machine gauge and yarn count Control of loop length Productivity of knitting machines Relationship between geometry and properties of a loop Importance of loop length and loop shape Geometry of weft-knitted loop Some useful expressions Fabric areal density Fabric width Fabric length Tightness factor of fabric References Further readings Appendix 13 Formation of warp-knitted fabrics Warp-knitting machines Broad classification Tricot machine Basic warp knits Convention for representation of stitches Single bar knits Pillar stitch I and 1 tricot lap 2 1 stitch 1 and 1 or tricot lap 2 1 stitch 3 1 and 4 1 stitches Atlas stitch Multi-bar warp knit constructions Sequence of loop formation Compound needle on tricot machine Latch needle on single-bed Raschel Latch needle on double-bed raschel Special feature of machine and product Special features of lapping diagrams and Lapping plans Shogging motion of guide bars Pattern disk Pattern chain Electronic shogging Single-bed knits Nets Inlaid structures Weft-inserted structures Loop or pile structure Double-bed spacer and cut plush fabrics Comparison of warp-knitting process vis-à-vis other Yarn-to-fabric conversion processes Further readings 14 Formation of braids Introduction Geometry of tubular braids Elements of tubular braids Elements of a tubular braiding machine Differences between flat and tubular braid Limitations of braiding References 15 Formation of nonwoven fabrics Introduction Classificarion Fibers in nonwoven fabrics Web formation from fibers Dry method Carding process Laying of a carded web Aerodynamic process Wet method Web formation from polymer chips Web formation by spunlaid route Web formation by meltblowing Web formation by flashspinning and electrospining Reinforcement of web Mechanical method Needle punching Hydro-entanglement Stitch bonding Thermal bonding Adhesive bonding Physics and chemistry of adhesive binders Method of application of binders to nonwovens References Further readings 16 Formation of triaxial and multiaxial 2-D and 3-D fabrics Introduction Triaxial fabrics Woven triaxial fabric Warp guidance system Beating up system Beating triaxial fabric Comparison of woven and braided triaxial fabrics Multiaxial fabrics Quartaxial weaving Multiaxial warp knitting Three-dimensional fabrics Three-dimensional knitted products Three-dimensional braided products Three-demensional woven products Formation of three-dimensional flat Woven products Formation of three-dimensional Cylindricial woven products Key technologcal concerns for 3-D fabric-formation Systems References Further reading Index
FABRIC MANUFACTURING
Contents
Preface
Acknowledgments
Author
1 Textile fabrics: An overview
2 A brief outline of various fabric formation systems
Weaving system
Knitting system
Braiding system
Netting and lacing systems
Nonwoven systems
3 Yarn winding
Objectives
Package build
Unwinding behavior
Precision and random winding
Features of a modern surface-driven cone-winding machine
Tensioner
Yarn splicer
Ends-opposed pneumatic splicing
Ends-together pneumatic splicing
Principles of pneumatic splicing
Non-pneumatic splicers
Yarn cleaners
Yarn waxing
Drum winding
Drum drive
Effects of drum groove geometry
Package cradle
Peripheral features
4 Warping
Warping systems
Elements of warping systems
Creel
Leasing system
Expandable reed and length-measuring system
Drum for winding sections
Beaming systems
Further reading
5 Yarn sizing
Importance of sizing
Sizing material
Desirable nature of bonds between adhesives and
Fiber material
Van der waals forces
Dipole-dipole interactions
Hydrogen bonds
Starch as a suitable material for sizing cotton
Boiling of starch
Acid treatment
Alkali treatment
Oxidation of starch
Typical behavior of starch as aqueous
Suspension
Sizing of synthetic fibers
Hot melt adhesives
Sizing machine
Size box
Drying zone
Splitting zone
Beaming zone
Controls on a modern sizing machine
Stretch control
Tension control
Moisture control
Pressure control
Temperature control
Level control
Special sizing systems
Dye sizing
Single-end sizing
Hot melt sizing
Solvent sizing
Cold sizing
Feature of new sizing methods
Reference
6. Basic weaves and the process of drawing in
Basic concepts
Identification to the basic weaves
Repeat and shift
Drafting and lifting
Methods of generating weaves
Transformation methods of fabric weave design
Process of drawing in
References
Appendix
7 Primary and secondary motions of a weaving loom
Basic machine elements
Principles of shedding
Shedding tappet
Shed geometry
Shed angle
Cyclic variation in yarn strain
Shed envelope
Asymmetric shed
Staggered shed
Geometry of wrap line
Types of shed
Principles of shuttle picking
Mechanism
Kinematics of a picking system
Beating up
Reed
Mechanism of the beating-up process
Development of crimp and widthwise
Contraction of fabric
Stabilizing fabric width at the reed
Cloth fell displacement during beating up
Principles of take up
Principles of let off
Negative let-off motion
Positive let-off motion
Variation in warp tension
8 Development in shedding motions
Limitations of shedding tappet
Functional principles of dobby
Principles of dobby
Principle of programming
Driving system
Limitations of dobby
Functional principles of jacquard
Selection system
Limitations of mechanical jacquard
New generation jacquards
New concepts of jacquard shedding
Next-generation shedding systems
9 Developments in weft insertion systems
Drawbacks of a conventional system
Basic principles of shuttles weft insertion systems
Partially guided solid carrier
Fully guided solid carrier
Basic concepts of fluid carrier
Guided fluid carrier
Completely unguided fluid carrier
Further readings
10 Features of modern shuttle less weaving systems
Machine drive and power consumption
Drive to sley
Fabric selvedge
Productivity and fabric quality
Application of electronics
Application of composite materials
QSC and automation in drawing in
Preparatory process
Modern cone winder
Modern warper
Modernization in sizing
Noise generation
Techno-economics
11 Nonconventional weaving systems
Multiphase weaving
Ripple shed weaving
Wave shed weaving
Narrow fabric weaving
12 Formation of weft-knitted fabrics
Introduction
Process of loop formation
Basic weft knits
Plain or single jersey
Derivatives of single jersey
Instability and asymmetry of plain loop
Curling of fabrics edges
Spirality of wale line
Stability of wale line
Stabilization of knitted structure
Rib knit
Purl knit
Interlock knit
Conventions for re presentation of weft-knitted stitches
Systems of the basic weft-knitting machines
Needles and beds
Sinkers
Knitting cams
Sequence of loop formation
Single bed
Loop formation on single flat bed
Loop formation on single circular bed
Double bed
Rib gating
Interlock gating
Purl gating
Guidelines on control of the knitting process
Relationship between machine gauge and yarn count
Control of loop length
Productivity of knitting machines
Relationship between geometry and properties of a loop
Importance of loop length and loop shape
Geometry of weft-knitted loop
Some useful expressions
Fabric areal density
Fabric width
Fabric length
Tightness factor of fabric
13 Formation of warp-knitted fabrics
Warp-knitting machines
Broad classification
Tricot machine
Basic warp knits
Convention for representation of stitches
Single bar knits
Pillar stitch
I and 1 tricot lap
2 1 stitch
1 and 1 or tricot lap
3 1 and 4 1 stitches
Atlas stitch
Multi-bar warp knit constructions
Compound needle on tricot machine
Latch needle on single-bed Raschel
Latch needle on double-bed raschel
Special feature of machine and product
Special features of lapping diagrams and
Lapping plans
Shogging motion of guide bars
Pattern disk
Pattern chain
Electronic shogging
Single-bed knits
Nets
Inlaid structures
Weft-inserted structures
Loop or pile structure
Double-bed spacer and cut plush fabrics
Comparison of warp-knitting process vis-à-vis other
Yarn-to-fabric conversion processes
14 Formation of braids
Geometry of tubular braids
Elements of tubular braids
Elements of a tubular braiding machine
Differences between flat and tubular braid
Limitations of braiding
15 Formation of nonwoven fabrics
Classificarion
Fibers in nonwoven fabrics
Web formation from fibers
Dry method
Carding process
Laying of a carded web
Aerodynamic process
Wet method
Web formation from polymer chips
Web formation by spunlaid route
Web formation by meltblowing
Web formation by flashspinning and electrospining
Reinforcement of web
Mechanical method
Needle punching
Hydro-entanglement
Stitch bonding
Thermal bonding
Adhesive bonding
Physics and chemistry of adhesive binders
Method of application of binders to nonwovens
16 Formation of triaxial and multiaxial 2-D and 3-D fabrics
Triaxial fabrics
Woven triaxial fabric
Warp guidance system
Beating up system
Beating triaxial fabric
Comparison of woven and braided triaxial fabrics
Multiaxial fabrics
Quartaxial weaving
Multiaxial warp knitting
Three-dimensional fabrics
Three-dimensional knitted products
Three-dimensional braided products
Three-demensional woven products
Formation of three-dimensional flat
Woven products
Formation of three-dimensional
Cylindricial woven products
Key technologcal concerns for 3-D fabric-formation
Systems
Index
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